Ogham Stones


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Ogham Stones on the Dingle Peninsula

oghamchraobh - ogham alphabet   cloch oghaim - ogham stone 

"The greatest concentration of Ogham stones in Ireland"

Ogham stones are stones on which short marks were made in groups of between one and five notches, strokes or diagonal lines, usually on the edge of the stone. Each group signifies a sound in Old Irish, and they are the oldest surviving written form of the language which is still spoken in this area.  The letters/sounds which were carved are based on the Latin alphabet which we still use today. The inscriptions can signify a single name, or a phrase such as ‘X son of Y of the family of Z’, but sometimes a little more detail is added. The inscriptions can date from the end of the 4th up to the early 8th century AD.

The greatest concentration of Ogham stones in Ireland (which is where most of them – about 360 – are located) is to be found here in Corca Dhuibhne, with over 60 known examples.  They are found mainly in burial grounds, and are sometimes accompanied by crosses indicating Christian association, but examples can also be found outside of these areas, and inscriptions were also sometimes carved on much earlier (probably Bronze Age or later Neolithic in date) galláin or standing stones.  Here the stones may have been boundary or territorial markers, or perhaps memorials, marking where someone died, or fell in battle, or indeed was buried.  It is possible that some stones were associated with pilgrimage, or had other functions at which we can only now guess. Some examples were taken in the past from their original locations and re-used in the building of souterrains (underground passages sometimes associated with ringforts), or, more recently, as lintels over doors and windows of vernacular houses.

There are many places where these stones can be seen in Corca Dhuibhne, though using the services of a local guide will ensure that you will easily find them, and find out the stories connected with each.

Several ogham stones are also on display in Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne, Baile an Fheirtéaraigh - Ballyferriter.

  • ogham stone showing cut notches and a hole in front

    Ogham Stone at Kilmalkedar

    This example of an Ogham Stone can be seen in the graveyard at Kilmalkedar - Cill Mhaoilchéadair  in front of the ruined 12th-century church.

  • Ogham Stone standing near shoreline at Smerwick harbour Dingle Peninsula

    Ogham Stone at Ballinrannig

    This Ogham Stone stands overlooking Smwerwick Harbour. It can be found just off the route of the Dingle Way - Slí Chorca Dhuibhne, in Ballinrannig, close to Wine Strand and Béal Bán beaches.

  • front of museum and sign  in Ballyferriter Dingle Peninsula Ireland

    Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne

    Several ogham stones are on display in the regional museum for the Corca Dhuibhne Gaeltacht - Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne, in Baile an Fheirtéaraigh village. Here you can learn more about the history of ogham and an exciting 3D scanning project corcadhuibhne3d.ie

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History of the Dingle Peninsula - a brief outline


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HISTORY OF THE DINGLE PENINSULA - A BRIEF OUTLINE

THE MESOLITHIC PERIOD  C.4000BC

The first known evidence of human settlement on the Dingle Peninsula

Excavations at Ferriter’s Cove, near Ballyferriter, revealed evidence of hunter/ gatherer groups, who, while camping in the area at separate periods spread over hundreds of years, exploited food sources along the coast, and used locally-found stones to make tools.

This site was inhabited during the latter part of the Mesolithic Period (or Middle Stone Age), 8000-4000 BCE. This seasonally used site produced remains of a wide range of food such as hazel nuts, red deer, pig, hare, and birds (including the guillemot and gannet). There were 14 different species of fish identified, among them wrasse, conger eel, thornback ray, tope and haddock.an

Middens (dumps) of shellfish can still be seen in the sand dunes of the area, where they were deposited 6,000 years ago. Among the more important finds were some cow bones, dating to 5700 BC indicating contact with early farmers also living in the area, as well as some human bone.

THE NEOLITHIC PERIOD C.4000 - C.2500 BC

The first farmers appear, living in more permanent structures, building homes and tombs of stone, and making pottery.

It is during this period that the first farmers appear, living in more permanent structures, and showing a certain skill with the craft of pottery. As during the Mesolithic, stone is the main material used in tool and weapon making.

Large stone tombs are built to house the dead, and possibly also for ritual use. Some of the tombs of this period show incredible architectural skill in their orientation on the setting sun during the Winter Solstice.

The southwest of Ireland had traditionally been seen as having few Neolithic monuments. The discovery of a series of Passage Tombs outside of Tralee has reopened the debate. It is now felt that many of the hilltop cairns date to the Neolithic. It is also likely that some Rock Art and Standing Stones, as well as some Wedge Tombs, may also date to the later Neolithic rather than to the Bronze Age.

The Bronze Age  

loch a dúin valley waterfalls and lake dingle peninsula ireland

Loch a’-Dúin Valley

The Loch a’-Dúin valley near Cloghane contains the most remarkable series of monuments from the Bronze Age. In this valley of 1,500 acres, there are 90 stone structures dating from 2500 BCE up to modern times. Running like a web throughout the landscape are several miles of stone walling, hidden by peat which has accumulated over the past 3,000 years. From archaeological excavations and pollen studies, it has become clear that the Loch a’-Dúin Valley was used for intensive agriculture, both pastoral and arable, from 1600 BC to the beginning of the Iron Age. During this time habitation huts, fulachta fiadh (also known as burnt mounds), standing stones and enclosures were erected to house both humans and animals. Even earlier are the wedge tomb and the cup and circle rock art (of which there are nine examples), making it the largest concentration on the Dingle Peninsula.

The level of preservation is due to the protective cover of the bog which completely covered the landscape. It is during modern turf cutting that the ancient remains are uncovered. The peat preserves all organic materials to a remarkable degree. Birch wood found during the excavation of a section of pre-bog wall was preserved perfectly. The bog also holds all of the pollen which was released from the vegetation over the past several thousand years, enabling the botanist to discover what grew in the valley in the past.

The Loch a’-Dúin Valley today has been marked out with a walking route and is accessible to walkers of all abilities.

Examples of Bronze Age sites on the peninsula: Rock Art at Aghacarrible, Standing stone in the garden of Milestone House, Milltown.

The Iron Age

caherconree in snow

The Iron Age (500 BCE - 4500 ADCE) is still an enigmatic period in Ireland. Though some promontory forts and hill forts were used during this period, it is possible that some of them date from the earlier Bronze Age.

One of the most dramatic sites on the peninsula may also date to this period. Overlooking the village of Camp, the gateway to the peninsula, one will find Cathair Con Rí, certainly one of the finest inland promontory forts in the country. Its high wall marks the boundary to the barony of Corca Dhuibhne. What was its use? Was it defensive, territorial, or occupied on a more full-time basis? Nobody knows its true purpose; but it is certainly one of the most rewarding walks on the Dingle Peninsula.

The promontory fort of An Dún Beag, at Fán, unfortunately now severely eroded by the sea, did provide an Iron Age date when excavated, although much of what is to be seen today at the site belongs to the Early Medieval period. It is possible the very large strongly-defended promontory fort at Bull’s Head, on the east side of Dingle Harbour, might also date from this period but only excavation could prove this.

Early Christian period 

5th -12th Century AD

We are particularly fortunate on the Dingle Peninsula in that there is a very good survival of early monastic remains. Over 30 monastic sites survive, with a variety of remains such as churches, cross slabs, holy wells, beehive huts, shrines, burials, sun dials, ogham stones and enclosing features. One, An Riasc, near Ballyferriter, has been excavated, others, like Oileáin tSeanaigh off the coast of Castlegregory, remain practically untouched since they were abandoned, although the sea is encroaching on this site. It was from such sites of education, from the 6th century onwards, that Irish monks travelled throughout Europe converting people to Christianity. It is during this period that the finest art works such as the Book of Kells and the Ardagh Chalice, were produced.

The Church in Ireland during this period was not under the direct rule of Rome, and thus retained many of the early Pre-Christian influences.

ring forts, cashels and beehive huts

Caherdorgan stone cashel or ring fort Dingle Peninsula Ireland

Where did the ordinary people live?

Many ring forts and cashels (the enclosures within which the well-off farmers and their families lived) survive from this period. Many fine examples survive, including Cathair Deargáin near Ballydavid, several sites in Kilvickadownig and Gleann Fán (near Slea Head, and which can be visited for a small fee), Caher na bhFionnúrach, not far from An Bóthair, and a ringfort at Emlagh East, near an Riasc. The less well-off would have lived in unenclosed settlements, and some of the ‘beehive huts’ found in particular near to Slea Head would have been the homes of these people. These buildings are roofless – the roofed examples that can be seen near many of the 19th - century farmhouses would date from the late 19th century.

Post Medieval 15th -17th Century AD

The Desmond Rebellion of 1569 - 1573

The 1st Desmond Rebellion was led by James Fitzmaurice Fitzgerald and the Rebellion of 1579 -1583 was led by Gerald Earl of Desmond. These men headed an old Anglo-Norman Catholic family and could be considered the equivalent of ‘princes’ of the province of Munster controlling much of the area.

In 1579 James Fitzmaurice Fitzgerald was declared a traitor by the crown of England and from then became a hunted man. He sought help from the Catholic courts of France and Spain and from the Pope against the Protestant Queen Elizabeth. In July 1579 Fitzmaurice Fitzgerald arrived in Dingle harbour with a Spanish expeditionary force. He came ashore and was ambushed and killed shortly afterwards. The ships left Dingle after a few days and sailed to Smerwick harbour where they set up camp at Dún an Óir, which can still be visited today. They stayed here for over a year and were joined by Italian and Irish reinforcements. During this year The Black Earl (Earl of Ormond) raided the Dingle Peninsula in 1580 to ensure that no locals would help the invaders at Dún an Óir. Here they were massacred by English forces under Earl Grey de Wilton. Following the death of Gerald Earl of Desmond in 1583 there was confiscation and redistribution of Desmond’s lands.

Post Medieval 15th -17th Century AD

The Spanish Connection

Dingle was an important trading port during the 16th century with merchant ships trading wine and other goods with ports in France, Spain and Britain. Spanish merchants were said to have lived in Dingle and some of the buildings were built in the Spanish fashion. The King of Spain, Charles V sent a personal envoy to Dingle in 1529 to communicate with the Earl of Desmond, resulting in The Treaty of Dingle.

By the 15th century the sea journey between the south coast of Ireland and the Iberian coast took 5 - 10 days with favourable winds/weather. Dingle was an embarkation point for pilgrimages to Santiago De Compostela in Galicia in north-western Spain.

HISTORY AND ARCHAEOLOGY - ACTIVITY PROVIDERS

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Read more: History of the Dingle Peninsula - a brief outline

The Dingle Peninsula - Interactive History Timeline


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Corca Dhuibhne Líne Ama Staire

The Dingle / Corca Dhuibhne History Interactive Timeline

The Dingle / Corca Dhuibhne History Interactive Timeline is an exciting new community-driven project which puts in place for the first time an easily accessible historical on-line tool for those interested in all aspects of the Dingle Story, from pre-history to contemporary times. From the earliest prehistoric era through the monastic period, from the Geraldine Wars to the devastation of the Great Famine right up to the present day, the lives and culture of the people of the Dingle Peninsula have provided historians, archaeologists and story-tellers with rich material.

The Timeline can be seen at dinglehistory.com.

Dingle History Interactive Timeline

The Dingle Peninsula - 6,000 Years of History

The Dingle/Corca Dhuibhne History Timeline is intended for a wide range of readership, including students, tourists, local people and all interested in our local and national heritage. The information on each event is presented in short summaries on a timeline background which has been divided into different eras. Each historical event has been referenced to provide routes to further study. The Timeline is available in English and Irish.

Dingle History Timeline

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Read more: The Dingle Peninsula - Interactive History Timeline

Monuments and Archaeological sites ~ Láithreacha Seandálíochta


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Monuments and Archaeological sites on the Dingle Peninsula

Láithreacha Seandálíochta i gCorca Dhuibhne

There are more than two thousand archaeological sites on the peninsula. Local heritage organisation, Oidhreacht Chorca Dhuibhne, has published a survey of all field antiquities in the area from the Mesolithic Period to the seventeenth century C.E. The book may be consulted in Dingle library.

Select a monument or archaeological site

Dingle Peninsula Museum Ballyferriter

Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne - West Kerry Museum

You can learn more about the monuments and archaeological sites on the Dingle Peninsula at Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne, the regional museum for the Corca Dhuibhne Gaeltacht. The museum is in the old schoolhouse Baile an Fheirtéaraigh - Ballyferriter built in 1875. 

With information and artefacts the museum illustrates the history of the Dingle Peninsula from the Stone Age to the present covering the  geology and formation of the landscape, the Early Christian period, the Anglo-Norman conquest, the Early Modern Period, the Desmond Rebellion, the Spanish Armada and the Great Famine. There is a small café and bookshop and reference material on many of the historical sites.

Mission

"Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne collects, safeguards, holds in trust, displays and interprets a variety of objects and data relating to the rich natural and cultural heritage of the Dingle Peninsula, and endeavours to educate, entertain and enlighten all visitors, from the local student to the scholar" Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne Website

Archaeological sites on the Dingle Peninsula

  • Kilmalkedar - Cill Mhaoilchéadair

    52.1884,-10.3332

  • Caherdorgan Cashel - Cathair Deargáin

    Cashel or Ring Fort

    52.1803,-10.3425

  • Gallarus Oratory

    52.1727,-10.3494

  • Reask - An Riasc

    52.1668,-10.3824

  • Dúnbeg Fort

    52.1033,-10.4086

History and Archaeology Providers

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Read more: Monuments and Archaeological sites ~ Láithreacha Seandálíochta